RC10GX Stealth - Masami 1989 World Champ REPLICA

Welcome to the information page for our REPLICA conversion kit of the:

* RC10'89 Stealth - Masami 1989 World Champ *

*** ORDER HERE ***

On this page:

OVERVIEW - Our RC10GX'89 Replica
VIDEO - Links
INCLUSIONS - WHAT DO YOU GET IN THE KIT
WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED?
OPTIONS / AFTER-MARKET
PROTOTYPE PHOTOS

OVERVIEW - Our RC10GX racing replica...

Photo of our racing build (with dirty "modern" electronics/tyres...haha!)

*** NEW *** Reference for doing your own replica Masami body/wing click here

Conversion kit built:

Original:

Photo of the original/actual car Masami won the Worlds with:

Above photo and more from the Team Associated site here were primarily utilised in the development of our replica!

VIDEO - Links:

Bor Mac TRUE VINTAGE RC - RC10GX Stealth tribute build - Keilor Vintage BASH

Vintage BASH 2022 RC10GX practice laps by Ray Munday

Racing at Coleman Cup Knox - October 2022

Bor Mac's Vintage BASH Ep#1 (~4m37s, 5m25s, 6m52s-->7m01s)

Hearns Hobbies Live show from the Vintage BASH Keilor trackside Oct 2022 (from ~14m45s)

Keilor Club Day Race - Vintage class 21.5T - November 2022

...more to come!...

Replica:

Now YOU can re-create your very own replica of this ICONIC '89 Worlds winning RC10!

This page provides you all the details about this conversion kit with listings and links relating to what you get in this GP3D conversion kit and also what are all the remaining original and after market parts you will need or suggested options to build your complete car!

WHAT DO YOU GET IN THE GP3D CONVERSION KIT?

Chassis with 30 degree kick-up moulded

BezerkRC plain weave carbon matte finish

Topdeck

BezerkRC plain weave carbon matte finish

Topdeck Standoffs - Rear
Shock Tower - Front

BezerkRC fibreglass

Shock Tower - Rear

BezerkRC fibreglass
You can use an original 2 hole RC10 Tower, but the 4 Bulkhead mounting holes should be countersunk for exact replica

Brace for Front Inner Arm Hinge pins - Aluminium
Bulkhead - Rear (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Bulkhead - Front Nose (Printed: NylonG white)
Suspension Arms - Rear (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Suspension Arms - Front (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Inner Suspension Mounts - Rear (Printed: NylonG white)
CHOICE: Gearbox Casing (Left & Right) (Printed: NylonG white)

Version A: to suit original idler with bearings in the casing
Version B: to suit ReRe design for shaft in casings and bearings in the idler gear

Gearbox Standoffs 3x (to support motor plate) (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Gearbox Top Brace Plate (2 versions: post hole forward/rearward) (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Body Post Rear (replica of standard RC10 item) (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Body Post Front (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Battery Cup - Rear (as per original RC10 item - but 'trimmed') (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Battery Cup - Front (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Battery Cup - Rear body supports (as per original RC10 item - but 'trimmed' - Left & Right) (Printed: PCBlend natural)
Battery Retainer Plate (2 types included) (Printed: PETG white)

Standard version for NiCad/NiMH/Shorty packs
Long version for 2S LIPO (suits length ~139mm)

ESC Support Tray (Printed: PETG white)
Wheel Adapter to mount Yokomo TH-1 style wheels (2 types included) (Printed: PCBlend grey)

1x pair for use with 3/16" axles (designed for ReRe CVDs)

ALSO AVAILABLE SEPARATELY:

Receiver Case - clear vac formed to fit KO KR-285A Receiver
Hardware Kit - this contains the items specifically related to these conversion parts - you will need to provide any remaining standard hardware items for your build:

Hardware item	Size	Quantity
Bolt 8-32 counter sunk	1/2"	7
Bolt 4-40 counter sunk	7/16"	8
Bolt 4-40 counter sunk	3/8"	6
Bolt 4-40 counter sunk	5/16"	10
Bolt 4-40 counter sunk	1/4"	2
Bolt 4-40 button	1/4"	5
Bolt 4-40 button	3/8"	4
Bolt 4-40 socket	3/8"	11

Yokomo TH-1 type Wheel Adapter 1/4" - works with the original 1/4 stub axle

This render depicts all the parts that you get in the kit:

(except bolts --> available in separate hardware kit as linked above)

Two gearbox casing variants available - depends on the idler gear type you have:

LiPO 2S full length battery

For using 2S full sized LiPo batteries (length ~139mm) the front battery cup can be moved to the forward position holes (8mm difference) and then you can swap to the other supplied 'long' battery strap so that the top holes still line up!

WHAT ELSE DO YOU NEED!?

Standard RC10 parts required/suggested:

We started with a purchase of a cheap as possible second hand RC10T, the key items suggested to obtain are:

Shocks Front (1.02")

Note: these truck items are longer than the original RC10 shock bodies
Reference measurements from pivot bolts centre-to-centre:

Extension max: 88mm
Compression min: 63mm

Shocks Rear (1.32")

Note: these are the same as the original RC10 shock bodies
Reference measurements from pivot bolts centre-to-centre:

Extension (with internal limiters): ~91mm
Compression min: 69mm

Stealth gearbox internals (gears/bearings/layshaft/diff) and hardware
Gear cover
CVDs

Worlds ReRe CVDs are just long enough with ~2.4mm shimming inwards
Custom Works MIP CVD SHORT
JC Racing Products UJs

Front steering blocks
Front steering block carriers & king pin
Steering bell cranks
Hinge pins

RC10T: all hinge-pins are perfect
RC10: front inner are too short, others are perfect
These measurements are between the clip grooves
Measurements (between inside of e-clip slots):

Rear Inner: 51mm (~52mm would also work ok)
Rear Outer: 29mm (28mm would 'just' work ok)
Front Inner: 38mm ideal, RC10T is 40mm which also works ok - you can shim the end play as desired
Front Outer: 26mm

Ball cups and ball studs
All bearings for gearbox, front wheels and rear uprights
General 4-40 & 8-32 hardware

Note: the motor plate from the RC10T is anodized black, therefore if you wish to use the Gold colour - you will need to source this separately, along with the rear TQ10/RC10 curved motor guard plate (or cut off the rear part of a trashed gold pan chassis - if you happen to have one lying around - I'm pretty sure that's what the originals were actually from!!!)

Note: to allow clearance of the rear inner camber link ball/ball cup you will need to cut/dremel out a small section of the motor plate (photos to come!)

After market/repro parts recommended:

These are not original RC10 parts!

NoCoast shop category: GP3D - RC10GX
Top deck alloy standoffs

Top deck standoffs front posts

Source: No Coast RC Link - 2 pieces ('89 car only requires 2)
Source: No Coast RC Link - 4 pieces ('91 car requires 4)

Wing Mount Tower Posts

Source: No Coast RC Link

Wing Buttons

Example source: No Coast RC Link

Driveshaft Options

Yokomo TH-1 wheel adaptors

Our kit comes with printed versions, but alloy replicas are also available from NoCoast:

Turnbuckles 4-40 Retro

Camber Link - Rear: 1 5/8" (2x)
Camber Link - Front: 2" (2x)
Steering Link - Front: 2.5" (2x)

Grub screw (steel): Steering Bell-crank Middle Link: 4-40 1/2" (1x)

Hinge pins

Hinge Pin set
These measurements are between the clip grooves
As per above an RC10T provides you all the required hinge pins, alternatively any aftermarket 1/8" (0.124") hinge pins of the correct lengths will work:
Rear Inner: 51mm (~52mm would also work ok)
Rear Outer: 29mm ideal (28mm also work ok)
Front Inner: 38mm ideal, RC10T is 40mm which is long but also works fine - optionally you can shim the end play as desired
Front Outer: 26mm